From behind me, the sound of the waves lapping at the shore, the pound and recession of water over sand. Aside from that it's still, and all I see in the darkenss is the glow of laptop screen and its keyboard. It's almost 8pm Sept 21 2023. The sun has set. The lights of tankers a quarter mile out to sea, glowing through the darkness where deep black sea met the darkness of the sky.
I sit in the parking lot, inside my bus, listening, typing, thinking. i am alive. I get to surf and exercise everyday. I get to live at the beach and can spend all day surfing, exercising, reading, writing, and smoking weed at the beach, in the sunshine, or on my roof at my shop.
My goal is to surf in 3 more countries this year. I'm not sure which ones or when. It's already fall so I don't have many months left.
I'm looking to expand my business and even move. I'm exhausted. I just got home two nights ago from San Francisco, and a funeral in Washington DC before that for my grandmother. I ended up being gone from the morning of Sept 10 until the evening of September 19 I went to San Francisco origninally on the 10th to meet my mother's uncle and to fly with him to Washington DC for my grandmother's funeral on the 13th. That's the day we ended up getting a message from my father that he was in the hospital and would be having an emergency procedure done to have blood and fluid pumped from his chest cavity, because he had fallen and broken 7 ribs. We flew back to San Francisco the next day and by 10pm that night I was in the hospital with my dad. He stayed there until late Sunday, and I hung out with him while he moved out of hospital and back to home and we waited for another family member to arrive...